Showing posts with label Northern Ireland: Belfast. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Northern Ireland: Belfast. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Giant's Causeway and Antrim Coast

One of the highlights of our stay in Northern Ireland was a tour to the Giant's Causeway and drive along the Antrim coast.  We booked our tour through Allen's Tours and had an absolute wonderful day.  We arrived to their office about 9am, departing time was 9:30am, since we were told the bus fills up pretty quickly. We started chatting with the driver and guide, Tom, who told us to put our stuff on the two seats right behind him, they were the best seats. Leaving promptly at 9:30am we were off to see many sites before arriving to Giant's Causeway around 3pm.  The drive up the Antrim Coastal Road was spectacular. What made the trip even better was Tom.  He was a fantastic guide, extremely knowledgeable, funny and made sure we were able to see all the sights and have enough time to enjoy them.   
Some pictures I took when we were moving so they might be a little blurry.  Unfortunately, our weather was not the greatest for most of the day but it didn't stop us from having a great time.
The first stop was to Carrick-A-Rede, meaning rock in the road, rope bridge.  A suspension bridge that connects the mainland to a tiny island called Carrick.  Swinging 100 feet above the sea, the bridge is made up between planks, wire and rope.
Recently I read an article in Travel & Leisure about the World's Scariest Bridges and Carrick-A-Rede was named #5:
 http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/worlds-scariest-bridges/5
 The views from Carrick Island are amazing with views of Rathlin Island and Scotland. It was pretty hazy but we could still see Scotland in the far distance.
 We took a quick 15 minute stop at the Bushmill Distillery, Ireland's oldest working distillery.
Along the Antrim Coast is the medieval Dunluce Castle.
Around 3pm we arrived to our final destination, Giant's Causeway.  It is an area of approximately 40,000 interlocking basalt columns from an ancient volcanic eruption.  However, there is another legendary story about how these basalt columns arrived which includes an Irish Giant Finn MacCool and a Scottish Giant Benandonner. To read more about the legendary store click here Myths and Legends.
You have the option to take the shuttle bus from the entrance down to the Giant's Causeway or walk.  We decided to walk so we could take in more of spectacular views.
We were given 3 hours at the Causeway and with the rain coming down pretty hard we decided to have a drink at the award winning pub, The Nook.
Heading back to Belfast Tom, our driver/guide, took us a round about way so we could see more of the coast and countryside.
I would definitely recommend anyone who is Northern Island to either rent a car or take a tour of the Antrim Coast and Giant's Causeway.  Not having been anywhere else in Ireland, I can only imagine how magnificent the rest of the country is and I hope that one day Scott and I will get the opportunity to rent a car and drive the southern and western coast.

Belfast Murals

Murals in Northern Ireland have become symbols of this area. They characterize the region's political and religious divisions from the past to present day. In Belfast, on Falls Road, Shankill Road and Sandy Row there are numerous murals depicting these divisions. The Emerald Isle is comprised of Northern Ireland, also called Ulster, and the Independent Republic of Ireland. This entire island was once ruled by Britain, Protestants, but the Irish, mainly Catholics, didn't assimilate according to plan and with the religious differences came the deep-rooted 'troubles' and cultural divide.

There is no doubt the Catholics rule in the Republic of Ireland but Northern Ireland is still Protestant-dominated even with over the third of the population being Catholics.  The Protestants applied policies that the Catholics considered tough which escalated tensions and led to 'The Troubles' in the late 1960's. While progress has been made you can still see the divide between these cultures in the neighborhoods. We did hear from several locals that this is not Protestants fighting against Catholics but extremist loyalists who are Protestants fighting against extremist Republicans who happen to be Catholics. It is these extremists who are content in living in secreted communities and   continue to instigate troubles in Northern Ireland.

On Falls Road, one of the most visited murals is the dedication to the republican hunger striker Bobby Sands.  In 1981, She, along with 9 others, starved themselves to death while imprisoned in Prison Maze. They were protesting for political prisoner status as opposed to terrorist treatment. Prison Maze, located in Northern Ireland, used to house paramilitary prisoners during the Troubles from mid-1971 to mid-2000.
More murals around Falls Road area.
Mural expressing the desire to break down the barriers between the divided communities.
This is the Clonard Martyrs Memorial Garden.  On August 15, 1969 Bombay Street was completely destroyed and 15 year old Fian Gerard McAuley died of gunshot wounds by loyalists (B Specials, RUC and armed loyalists) while defending the Clonard area. The Clonard and Falls area were under heavy gunfire and many Catholic homes were burned.
A dreary wall separates the Catholics of Falls Road from the Protestant Loyalists in the Shankill Road neighborhood. It is called the Peace Line because without it there would be no peace.
This a gate connects the two neighborhoods that was closed for 30 years but through progress, the gate is now open.
Mural dedicated to crossing the Peace Line.
Welcome sign as you enter Shankill Road Quarter.
Two murals dedicated to the Titanic that was built in Belfast.
UVF, formed in 1966, as an illegal loyalist paramilitary organization dedicated to keeping ties with the United Kingdom. Throughout their history, they have been tied to bombings, assassinations, kidnappings and hijacks usually targeting Catholic civilans.
This mural is in Sandy Row, a Protestant working-class community.
It is pretty amazing how much turmoil has taken place over the last 30+ years in Northern Ireland with bombings, fires and numerous killings. Even though there is still a divide, and probably always will be, I am happy to see that the area is moving in the right direction and finding peace. 

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Good Craic in Belfast

When I found out Scott's next work assignment was in Northern Ireland I was ecstatic.  I have many friends who have traveled this wonderful country and was excited to see if for myself.  We are only here for two weeks and Scott will be working mostly so we planned on spending one weekend in Belfast and the other weekend in Dublin.  What I didn't know about Northern Ireland is the temperate climate.  It has been in the mid to low 50's since we arrived and rains off and on everyday. 

We are staying at the Fitzwilliam Hotel that is centrally located in the heart of the city next to the Opera House.  Most of the sites are located in the city center so you can walk to pretty much everything.  

The first performance at the Grand Opera House was December 23, 1895 with burlesque shows, comedies and melodramas.  The opera house has extensive history with all the civil unrest that has transpired in Northern Ireland.  In 1969 the city center was a "no-go" area at night so they had to close down and sell the Opera House.  In 1972 the building was purchased by the Ulster Architectural Society and between 1974 - 1980 it went under extensive restoration.  In the 80's it flourished again until 1991 and 1993 when the property suffered extensive damage from two car bombs that were intended for the Europa Hotel next door.  Now the Grand Opera House is fully restored and back to having musicals, comedies and concerts. 
The beautiful building across the street from our hotel is the Presbyterian Church of Ireland and Northern Ireland. It is the largest Protestant denomination in Northern Ireland.  
The Belfast City Hall is a grand structure that dominates the city center.  It was built between 1898 and 1906 and since then has been replicated by the city hall in Durbin, South Africa and resembles St. Peter's Cathedral in London.  In the garden, you will find memorials to the Titanic and past wars.
Inside city hall.
In the City Hall garden is a new dedicated Titanic Memorial.
Also located in the grounds of City Hall is the Belfast Cenotaph.  It is about 30 feet high and dedicated to all those who sacrificed their lives in the First World War 1914 - 1918.
Korean War Memorial also in the grounds of City Hall.
 Shopping, shopping and more shopping!  There is no shortage of stores in Belfast.  One of the main shopping areas is located on Donegall Square  and continues to Victoria Street with Victoria Square mall.
A neat little bar called Bittles Bar behind the Victoria Square mall.
Built in 1720, Kelly's Cellars is the oldest pub in Belfast.  
Oysters, mussels, seafood chowder and so much more!  A fantastic seafood restaurant next to Kelly's Cellars.   
 Oyster Rockefeller
Snow crab claws
 Seafood chowder
The Albert Clock is Belfast's very own leaning tower.  It was constructed in 1867 in honor of Queen Victoria's departed husband Albert.  It is not as dramatic as the famous Tower in Pisa but does lean south.  The locals say, 'Old Albert not only has the time, he also has the inclination.'
Located in the Cathedral Quarter, St. Anne's Cathedral, also known as Belfast Cathedral, started construction in 1899 and completed in 1904.  The Cathedral also held a memorial service shortly after the tragic sinking of the Titanic and several members of Thomas Andrew's family attended.  Thomas was a naval architect in charge of the plans for Titanic and was on board when he and the other 1,516 died in the disaster.
Belfast Waterfront Hall is a multifaceted venue for arts and entertainment.  
Located in Stormont, outside of the city, is the Parliament buildings for Northern Ireland.
 There are a lot of Irish pubs in the city but nothing as famous as the Crown Bar Liquor Saloon.  Luck for us it was located across the street from our hotel so it was easy to stop in for a pint or two on our way home from touring the city.  The pub has also been known as the most beautiful bar in the world.  The interior is decorated with mosaic tiles, carved ceilings and  is the only bar lit with gas lamps.  The main dining room is located on the 2nd floor but on the main level there are ten snugs to offer exclusive privacy for you and your friends.
Unless you have been living under a rock in the past few weeks, you know this year is the 100 year anniversary of the Titanic sinking.  Belfast is the birthplace of the Titanic and on March 31st, the Titanic Belfast, opened on the shipyard where the Titanic, among other non-sinking ships, was built.

Belfast in the 1900's was a major industrial and commercial center with shipbuilding, linen, tobacco and heavy engineering.  Between 1851 and 1901 Belfast's population increased from 87,062 to 349,180.  Harland and Wolff, one of the largest shipbuilders in the world, dominated the shipping industry in Belfast and employed over 35,000 workers. In 1911 the RMS Titanic was built.  This must-see vistor attraction is six floors with nine interactive, virtual reality galleries.  Each gallery depicts a different period in the ship's life, from manufacture to maiden voyage.
First class cabin
The floor is all glass showing the sea floor and the Titanic.
Overall I was impressed with the Titanic exhibition but not blown away.  We purchased our tickets online and got a discount so it was $17.00 US per person; not horrible. The building itself is absolutely beautiful and the exhibition is well laid out.  But mostly I enjoyed the detailed history of not only the Titanic but of Belfast.  
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